Wolfville sits in the middle of the Annapolis Valley, a rift that runs between coastal mountains and a small inland range about 25 km away. It is a fertile area with a temperate climate that makes it ideal for growing grapes, and for a rest for 2 tired cyclists. We have over 1000 miles under our wheels and we both needed a break. Yesterday was an excellent start.
The warm weather continued and we decided to explore the valley a little. So we rode to the west toward Kingsport, just to look around. The locals here have a saying: "In Nova Scotia you're never more than 50 km from the sea." I think that they are right and at every little river crossing you can see the amazing influence of the 45 foot tidal swings.
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| And still the tide was not yet low. When high, the water level is at the top of the bank |
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| Lots of agriculture in this valley |
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| We couldn't figure this one out... |
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| We got lost a few times. Nothing new in it. |
We stopped by a couple of wineries and tasted their wares. Great stuff, but having only a bike makes it easy to not buy anything. That logic held up for a while, at least.
First we stopped at Blomidon winery where they specialize in growing a grape variety called Baco Noir.
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| A grape well-suited to this climate |
Then we hit a coffee shop in Canning, a lovely little town. We had a nice chat with a local cyclist who gave us invaluable local knowledge about which roads are best.
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| Canning, NS |
After we rode by the tidal flats at Kingsport we chanced upon a farm that is making cheese. We bought some gouda and had some gelato (never too early for that)!
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| The tide is well and truly out at this point |
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| Pretty quiet at the fromagerie |
Then came the big stop of the day, a winery called 1365 Church. We had read about this little winery and it sounded fun. Run by a Dutch guy who planted the vines only 6 years ago and who festoons his vineyard with bikes as a tribute to his Dutch heritage, it sounded fun.
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| We knew that this must be the place |
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| 1365 Church Vineyards and Winery |
I won't go on to long about our afternoon, but after trying a couple of their excellent wines we met the Dutch guy who runs the place, John Eikenboom. He is one of those guys who has such an overwhelmingly huge personality that he just takes over the entire conversation, the entire room. In a delightful way. We ended up hearing his stories (which are remarkable in enormous ways) and touring his tiny cellars and tasting the wines that he thinks are the best that he's ever made. He used his wine thief to let us try his cab franc that will be bottled next month, his chardonnay that has only seen stainless and no oak, and on and on.
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| Trying the chardonnay. The cellar is very tiny but well equipped |
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| His pride and joy, a young cab franc |
John wanted to know about our travels and we ended up mentioning that we'd bought some gouda from the fromagerie down the road. Oh, he went ballistic and said that we need to throw the "slechte" away before we tried it (we took "schett" to be a Dutch version of shit, but having Googled it, it means "bad cheese"). So we ran upstairs to sample three huge wheels of gouda that he'd taken deliver of just yesterday. These were the real deal from a friend of his in Holland and wow, the cheese was amazing.
We stayed far too long but it is funny how time flew by with such an amazing and engaging new friend. If ever you are in Nova Scotia, stop by this winery. You'll have fun for sure. And of course he wouldn't let us leave without a bottle. I didn't even complain about the added weight; we'll huck it to our next stop.
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| All wines are from estate grown grapes. |
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| It was hard to leave but as night was approaching we needed to get out of there |
Today we continue south in the Annapolis Valley to a small area around Annapolis Royal. This area is said to be the scallop and oyster capital of NS, so we're hoping to enjoy some good seafood. The ride is probably our longest, so I need to stop typing this early morning and get on the road.
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