Ride Day 1: Starting the Cabot Trail

Today we start our ride and the first segment is the "Cabot Trail," which goes around the perimeter of the Island. The route is about 200 miles in total, but we'll take four days or so. It is hilly since it traces the perimeter of the island, with all the headlands creating lots of ups and downs. Everyone says that this is a fantastic ride and we're looking forward to getting the wheels rolling. We've changed our route about 3 times since we arrived, but here's what we decided on: 

 

  

That will workl

It will be an eye-opener to ride the bike once again fully loaded with panniers front and rear, trunks on each end, and all the tonnage that goes with it. It always is. But what an absolute joy to get the wheels rolling again on a tour!

We woke up to a glorious morning, by Nova Scotia standards at least: sunshine, no rain, little wind, and fairly warm on the day (about 14 degrees). That'll do. We know that it will not last, but we're happy to take it for today.

From our place in Whycocomagh, early morning

Lorie really wanted to go to Inverness, and particularly, to a beach where they reportedly have great agates and pebbles. So we rerouted to head that way. It was a wonderful morning, even if there wasn't a flat bit of road the entire way.

This hill is really steep!

Inverness is on the west coast of Cape Breton Island and used to be a big coal mining center. No longer, but it has a lot of history. And the beach! Lorie wanted to get an agate or two for Jane.

The beach at Inverness

Earl, my new buddy

While Lorie scoured the beach, I stayed back with the bike (though we could leave it for a week, I'm sure, and nobody would touch it). But my stay was rewarded when I met Earl. What a guy! He just wanted to talk and I was more than happy to listen. He's 96 years old and was born in Inverness and has lived here his entire life. I heard about most of it. The photo shows him and his wife, on a photo on a pillow, who he lost a few years ago. Just a sweet old guy who is probably lonely as could be. I enjoyed hearing his stories.

Earl told us to go to his favorite restaurant, The Coal Minor, and said to go there and ask for Earl Taylor's special. He described it and I said that I'd see what Lorie wants to do. His special is fried liver over baked potatoes and covered with fried onions. We still had 30 miles to ride and I have to be honest, the special sounded a bit much. We bid adieu and said that we'd think about stopping at his restaurant, but continued past.

Jane's pebbles

These are the pebbles that Lorie decided to keep.

About half way to where we wanted to stop in lieu of The Coal Minor, Lorie realized that she'd left her pebbles on top of the post back at the beach. Sorry Jane. No pebbles. (But I was secretly glad since we have so many hills to climb and I wasn't keen on carrying pebbles...)

So we stopped at Route 19 Brewing ("Root 19") and ordered a short pore of beer, and moule e frittes. It was wonderful. So was the beer.

Moule. The frites came later.

Root 19, and the bike

We lingered a bit. Maybe too long as we had a long way to go. But the road was nice and the weather superb. On we went.

The flattest it got today!

We were headed for Margaree Harbour and were glad to have made it, as we were knackered. Margaree is a beautiful area with a charming little harbour with lots of lobster boats (the season just opened), but super quiet.

Entrance to Margaree Harbour

The view from the Red Tiny House

We are staying in a tiny house called the Red Tiny House and this is the view. Here's the house:

Our house for the night.

We are not carrying any food on this trip, so we rode up to the only restaurant in Margaree Harbour and had a few Root 19 beers and some fish and chips. Of course, it is Nova Scotia!

A good way to end a ride.

We continue north tomorrow, and it is probably our hardest day with a huge climb near the end. The weather looks pretty decent but not as sunny.

Stay tuned.